US Soft Power Lane, Copenhagen

One of my meandering walks in Copenhagen brought me to this row of American businesses, purveyors of…what exactly?…foods & beverages?…culture?…soft power?…in this case, to people who are understandably rather fed up with the United States. For the record, beside me and the man who is obviously spending time at the gym, there was a KFC.

Airports in Vietnam are infested with Burger King outlets, and if I am not in the mood for a $15 bowl of pho, I can part with my $15 for what is still laughingly called a Whopper with some tasteless fries and a Coke. Or is it a Pepsi at Burger King? Does anyone care?

I don’t know what 7 Elevens are like in the US these days; in Vietnam they are standard convenience stores with small selections of all kinds of packaged foods and beverages, household goods, and personal care products along side of prepared sandwiches, pastries and cakes, and a few prepared items zapped and served hot. The European 7 Elevens I saw on this trip have a more up market appearance and are devoted almost entirely to selling prepared foods – sandwiches, salads, and other small meals prepared and delivered daily for same-day sale. Some foods can be heated. There are rows of soft drinks and juices of all kinds, and beer, wine and booze (at least in some of the shops I saw). There are fresh baked goods, as well as packaged cakes and pastries along with the usual selection of ultra-processed ingredients and too much sugar or salt or both wrapped up as cookies, chips, nachos, biscuits, and “energy” foods, ad nauseam. Much of the fare is labeled “natural.” You can also find toothpaste and toothbrush, batteries, and a very limited selection of other personal care and daily use items.

A little difficult to see in the low resolution online post is a Hard Rock Cafe sign behind the 7 Eleven. Every time I see one, I shake my head wondering how this ridiculous outfit serving up mediocre, absurdly overpriced food and drinks survives.

Even more difficult to see beyond the Hard Rock, there is a green Starbucks sign. While I am ambivalent to cynical about the other three US brands pictured here, I loathe Starbucks. In addition to overpriced bad coffee and various overpriced toxic sugar concoctions passed off as drinks, the company is run by anti-union thugs, and that alone is enough to keep me out of any Starbucks shop anywhere.

In fact, my dislike of this outfit goes back many years. I lived in Nanjing and was a frequent visitor to Shanghai when Starbucks made its first appearance in that city around the year 2000. Shanghai was exploding with growth at the time and newly affluent Chinese were developing a taste for coffee. The city had numerous recently opened coffee shops, good and not so good, some homegrown, some run by overseas entrepreneurs or coffee aficionados. Starbucks arrived on the scene with massive brand awareness, its cachet as premium, imported American coffee, and cash to burn. The company’s shops opened up with bargain basement prices that undercut small shops importing and serving genuine premium coffee. Within a matter of months, Starbucks had decimated most, if not quite all, of Shanghai’s independent coffee shops. Typical of the first casualties of Starbucks’ entry, the young Italian man who served up absolutely brilliant espresso and coffees from his tiny stall in the Shanghai American Center was gone in a matter of weeks after Starbucks opened an outlet in the Center. After wiping out most of the competition, of course, Starbucks’ prices skyrocketed, over the course of a year or two, roughly tripling from what they were when the company first arrived in Shanghai.

I know Starbucks is not the only wealthy, large company that has bullied its way into a new market by undercutting the competition with low, loss-generating prices that small businesses cannot afford to match. That does not mean I have to like Starbucks or consume its mediocre coffee, does it.

Mid-Autumn Lion Dance, Hoi An

Monday evening was the culmination of the Mid-Autumn Festival (Tết Trung Thu) in Vietnam with a huge full moon in the sky and troupes of lion dancers on the streets entertaining holiday crowds.

The image above shows a small troupe performing along the street in front of a restaurant. In addition to the restaurant’s customers, a crowd of passers-by has gathered to watch the show. The lion below – two young men standing one on top of the other – was part of a well-known act that attracted a large crowd for its performance. The troupe arrived with two truckloads of equipment that it set up before the performance got underway. The photo shows only the first of several acts. I tried but failed to get this pair jumping along the row of pillars visible at the bottom of the image. I was standing on a tiny patch of grass amongst a big crowd and unfortunately could not get the combination of movement, light and reasonable focus needed to make an acceptable image. Feeling frustrated and claustrophobic, I decided to leave, figuring I could try for the motion image again next year.

Packing Heavy Gear, Kyoto, Japan

In May of this year, I bought a mirrorless Nikon Z7 II with a Z-mount 24-200mm zoom attached; this kit weighs in at around 1.2kg. If I swap out the zoom for the Z-mount 40mm prime lens I bought, I drop the weight I have slung around my neck to about 800gm. While the full-frame Z7 II (translation: the camera’s image sensor that records each photo taken is roughly the size of a 35mm film negative) is not a small camera, it is nonetheless noticeably smaller and lighter than the Nikon D750 I used for 8 years preceding my purchase of the Z7 II. Not that I am getting older or anything like that, but the reduction in weight has definitely been a welcome change.

All of that said, I was surprised at the number of people I saw in Japan walking around doing street shooting with enormous zoom lenses attached to their cameras. By way of example: I cannot imagine spending a day carrying around a camera-lens combination as big and heavy as the young woman in the photo is packing. I can’t tell exactly what she has there, but I figure her rig weighs at least 2kg and possibly as much as 3kg. Before you say that isn’t so much, try carrying around that kit for a day of shooting and let me know how your neck feels when you get home. And keep in mind that hand-holding a big zoom lenses like that steady enough to get really sharp images is no easy trick, even with vibration reduction built-in.

Well, as somebody once said: different folks, different strokes.

Inari: Shinto Deity of Sake, Kyoto

The Fushimi Inari Taisha in Kyoto is the principal shrine in Japan for the Shinto deity Inari. In fairness to the deity, I should add that, in addition to being the deity of sake, Inari is also the Shinto spirit for agriculture and rice, and is associated with prosperity and worldly success. The shrine was first established in 711 CE, but it was one hundred years later that it moved to its current location. The entrance to the shrine area is on the outskirts of Kyoto at the base of a small mountain, the peak of which is 233 meters about sea level. The shrine’s main buildings are located near the entrance, and beyond this area are several trails leading from the entrance to the summit of the mountain with a number of smaller shrines to Inari along the paths.

The photo at the top of the page shows the main entrance to the shrine—the Romon or Two-Storied Gate. The Romon faces west and, as I approach, glows in the late afternoon sun of a dazzling October day. Below is the Romon from the other side after passing through the entrance. The shrine’s website (https://inari.jp/en/) notes that the gate was built in 1589 by a powerful samurai and feudal lord (daimyo) named Toyotomi Hideyoshi.

The view of the Romon after walking through the gate; the afternoon sun is directly behind the building.

I arrived at Fushimi Inari Taisha shortly after four in the afternoon. Already a bit worn out from a long day, I walked around the main shrine area near the entrance, but did not make it to the top of the mountain. Fushimi Inari Taisha is, perhaps, best known for the Senborn Torii, more than 800 brightly painted vermilion torii placed close together and forming a sort of tunnel that winds part of the way up the mountain. Altogether, there are thousands of torii donated by worshipers in the main shrine area and along the paths leading to the top of the mountain. (For more about torii: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torii.) I had planned to walk through the Senborn Torii, but when I got to the beginning of the walkway and saw the crowd of people already walking inside, I changed my mind. Not much tranquility or peace of mind to be found on that walk, or so it seemed to me.

The entrance to the Senborn Torii.
The Senborn Torii.

All of the shrines and temples I visited in Japan were beautifully preserved and diligently cared for; Fushimi Inari Taisha was no exception. The first of the images that follow is of the Honden—the Main Shrine. I tried to get a closer, more revealing view of this building, but each time I composed a photo one or more visitors planted themselves in such a way that they blocked a key part of the composition. It had already been a long day, and after a few tries, I settled for the photo I had and moved on.

The Honden—the Main Shrine
Probably the Gonden—I have no information about this building near the entrance of the Inari shrine.
I’m going with an incense burner until someone tells me otherwise.
The Hall of Shinto Music and Dance
The Divine Horse House

Around 5:30 or so both of my feet put themselves down and said, “Enough is enough, time to go.” I was dragging, and it was indeed time to head back to my hotel. After walking through the Two-Storied Gate headed for the metro stop, I turned for a final look at Fushimi Inari Taisha. What I saw was a lot of people many of whom were also on their way out, and in the background, the roof of the old guard house next to the main gate.

Visitors come and go at the entrance to the Shinto shrine Fushimi Inari Taisha.

I turned away and headed in the direction of the metro down the narrow street full of people and lined with shops.

This narrow street eventually ends at the entrance to Japan Rail’s Inari station.

Saturday Night Out and About, Tokyo

This walking street near Ueno Station in Tokyo is crowded with people looking for a good dinner and a good time on a Saturday night. A great place to spend my final night in Tokyo before heading to Kyoto the next day.

I have been taking a lengthy, unwelcome break from editing photos due to a contorted muscle in my hip that makes a nearby nerve unhappy, the result being eye-opening pain in my left leg. For those interested, the malady is called piriformis syndrome. Although I am still struggling with this miserable affliction, I have decided to get back to working on the folder brimming with photos from my October trip to Japan.